I have just returned from qualitative research across Uzbekistan - travelling to Tashkent, Namangan, Sang, Pop, Margilan, Fergana, Andijan, Altinkul, Samarkand and Tayloq - where I interviewed farmers, traders, waitresses, factory workers, teachers, librarians, housewives, office workers, company directors, students, academics, journalists, lawyers, activists, and government bureaucrats.